Summary
Eskdale YHA to Ambleside YHA
| Route Distance: 34.4 km | Estimated Time: 8:36
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| Total Ascent: 1342m | Total Descent: 1395 m |
Elevation Profile
Friday, 7 August 2009
Coast To Coast Day 2
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| From misc |
Route Map
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| From misc |
YouTube
Here's a video montage of Day2. Best viewed in HD mode and on a large screen. None of the photo's have been doctored in any way what-so-ever.
Route Description
Niagra
We awoke to the sounds of absolutely torrential rain on Saturday morning. It had been belting it down all night and by the sounds of it there was no signs of the weather abating. As the curtains were pulled back the rain seemed to stop instantly but the noise continued. As it turns out we'd been sleeping with our window open and the monsoon rains sound effects were actually caused by a beck rushing down from the fell behind the hostel. Still, it had put a lot of rain down in the last 18 hours or so and the clouds were still on the floor, we couldn't even see Harter Fell (our next intended conquest) from the dining room and it's only about a kilometer away. We breakfasted and planned the days logistics.
Logistics
Each day we have to get the van over to the next accommodation stop. Jon, Cleggy and myself have completed the ride previously but Kieran and Lee haven't. Chris had to get back to work on Monday so he wouldn't be able to complete the entire ride, so it was decided that everyone could drive a bit except KT and Wiggo who stood a chance of completing the whole shebang. My fear before the trip was that I'd have to drive the van quite a bit, but after yesterdays washout there was no shortage of volunteers to 'take one for the team' and drive the van. Cleggy and Chris decided it wasn't safe to make the journey over Hardknott Pass alone so they both jumped in the Mystery Machine and sped off into the sunset!
Logistics
Each day we have to get the van over to the next accommodation stop. Jon, Cleggy and myself have completed the ride previously but Kieran and Lee haven't. Chris had to get back to work on Monday so he wouldn't be able to complete the entire ride, so it was decided that everyone could drive a bit except KT and Wiggo who stood a chance of completing the whole shebang. My fear before the trip was that I'd have to drive the van quite a bit, but after yesterdays washout there was no shortage of volunteers to 'take one for the team' and drive the van. Cleggy and Chris decided it wasn't safe to make the journey over Hardknott Pass alone so they both jumped in the Mystery Machine and sped off into the sunset!
Bike Fixing
Lee had damaged his rear gear shifter on yesterdays descent of Black Sail Pass. Kieran had bent a rear disc rotor too, so we patched up the bikes on the front lawn of the superbly-situated Eskdale YHA. To our delight the clouds began to lift off the surrounding fells and before long there were glimpses of blue sky appearing as a fresh weather front brought in better tidings from the south west.
Eskdale YHA
A quick note on Eskdale YHA, the service has improved considerably since we were there last, it was great to see that it is no longer run by members of the Hitler Youth. In fact our hosts were pleasant, friendly and helpful. Unfortunately the drying room didn't quite dry our sodden clothes fully and so this morning we had to wear our damp biking gear and slip into soggy boots. This YHA now has an electronic key-code door lock which greatly facilitates late nights at the local pubs, superb idea. The hostel also had a bar area - a new innovation, but the prices were not much cheaper than at the pub. Overall though Eskdale YHA gets a thumbs up.
Harter Fell, Dunnerdale Forest, Fickle Crag
Upon leaving the hostel we headed towards Hardknott Pass on the road for 2km. We took a bridleway on the right at a cattle grid, just before the road starts to get steep. Things didn't look good at this point as it appeared that our route was now a full on river. We crossed the river and were relieved to find a proper bridleway. After passing through a couple of gates the single track became very steep and began to resemble a log-flume rather than a bicycle track. Clearly the rain that had fallen in the night was making it's way off the mountains via any route it could. We had to carry our bikes a fair bit, party because of the gradient and partly because of the foot-or-so of water that was meandering down the hill in the opposite direction.
It didn't get any better on the top either. Ulpha fell was awash, our track was riddled with bogs caused by streams crossing it at regular intervals. Next it was a trudge through the outskirts of Dunnerdale Forest. After taking a right turn under Kepple Crag we were soon back on the bikes and taking on some challenging single track aided by a gentle downward gradient. We crossed Grassguards Gill a couple of times, it was in flood evidenced by the waters flowing over rather than under wooden crossing points. We came to a farm and crossed Grassguards again at the ford. The current was very strong at the ford. We were undecided whether or not it was ridable or whether the current would flush out to sea. We walked the crossing a few times to test it, (it was only a couple of feet high), each time we did so we could feel the water trying to knock us off our feet. It might be quite tricky on a bike, if it washed a wheel away you would definitely end up swimming after your bike down the white water. Wiggo and I were too committed so we lined up and went for it whilst KT took some action shots. As it turns out it was fine, but there was potential for a slip up. Immediately after the ford we took a narrow bridleway into the trees to the left of Grassguards Gill as you head downwards. It's easy to miss. The single track along here was great if you're technically up to it. It's tight and slow with some big rock drops and rooty sections. Neither Lee or I cleaned it, we weren't far off though. KT found it a bit hard work on the hard tail. By this stage I was hoping that Kieran's sense of humour wouldn't desert him, it's bad enough having to walk up a hill never mind walk along the top then down the other side! The three of us then bombed down Fickle Crag which again has a couple of excellent technical challenges in the dry. In the wet they are all but lethal, the sort where you just point the bike down the hill and it's in the lap of the gods whether or not you lose a wheel on the slippy, slimy surface. It was like riding on ice on some parts. Still, it was better than walking!
The descent terminated at the Duddon River. Just as we arrived at the crossing there was a chap crossing the river via the submerged stepping stones, holding onto a cable. His three companions, another bloke and two ladies were encouraging our middle-aged Scandinavian(?) friend across. He looked fairly wobbly and sure enough took a full dive into the swim before flailing around a bit and holding on to the cable for dear life. I thought we were going to have to go in and save him but he managed to hold on and haul himself to safety on our side of the river. We crossed the river with the bikes without much problem. KT just waded through, Wiggo and I opted for the stepping stone route. It was like taking part in one of those Japanese game shows. After the river crossing you then have another short push up High Tongue for about 200 meters before turning right onto a road (which we were quite glad to see), then take your first road on the left to Long House.
Walna Scar
There's no two ways about it, the climb up Walna Scar isn't much fun. Last night I described it to an inqusitive lady (who was cradling a baby at the time) as "a bit of a grunt". The Wizard had rather amusingly misheard my turn of phrase and thought I'd just introduced the infant to it's first four letter c-word. The route up is signposted as Walna Scar Road and takes you up to Brown Crag, a short distance to the summit of Coniston Old Man. The first half of the climb is pretty much unridable unfortunately as some bright spark has been making 'surface improvements'. Sadly we'd left our Sherman tanks at home and so riding up a steep hill full of gravel was a bit hard. After the second gate the track is of a much better grade and is all ridable. We finally attained the summit and were blessed with stunning views westward out to the coast over Black Combe and then inland over Coniston and into central lakeland. The sunlight danced in and out of the clouds illuminating patches of the two valleys below. We savoured the moment before dropping our seats down and taking on the descent into Consiton town.
The top of the descent is a rocky affair, you have to pick your lines reasonably carefully or risk going over the bars as big drops present themselves without much warning, especially on a couple of tight bends. Walkers usually watch agog at this point, but they are generally courteous and make way for you, especially if you're dialled in. The hard part is trying to acknowledge their courteousness whilst concentrating on the next set of obstacles. You can't take your eyes off the track for a split second really. The rocky top section gives way to a fast flowing grassy mid-section which has a few little jumps you can hop over. The gradient reduces somewhat as you take a left fork and end up on a well-graded fire road that itself subsides into a small but very steep country lane which spits you out at The Sun in Conisiton where we engaged in a much deserved pint.
Slow Progress
We were supposed to be meeting Chris and Cleggy at Yewdale Tea Rooms just north of Coniston in the mid-afternoon, however my estimate of how quickly we'd traverse Harter Fell and Walna Scar were wildly optimistic thanks to the weather and, erm, my wild optimism. Van driver Clegg and Co-pilot Chris had ridden over from Ambleside and over Iron Keld (a nice bridleway) and after imbibing 27 cups of tea each had decided to cycle back to Ambleside YHA. At this point we had the option to crack on straight back to the hostel but it was turning out to be a lovely evening so we dismissed any thoughts of cheating and committed to going the long way around. We're glad we did as it produced some of the best views and most enjoyable riding on the route.
High Tilberthwaite, Little Langdale, Elterwater, Loughrigg Terrace
After resisting the urge for a second pint we headed north out of Coniston and after 2km on a bridleway just to the left of the road took the first lane on the left. It climbs upwards and past some old mine workings. The road peters out at a farm, we took the right hand fork and whizzed down the well graded track underneath the Tilberthwaite Fells, through Moss Rigg Wood and into Little Langdale. This is a good little bridleway and a great cut-through away from the madding crowds. From here we headed to Elterwater up a dead-end lane that again turned into a well graded track. We stopped for photos and to watch the cows grazing in the evening sunlight before heading through a working quarry which had three massive yellow trucks for carting the granite around. We dropped down to the B5343 and took on began the final climb of the day up up the side of Loughrigg Fell. Turn right onto a bridleway just after the road summit and enjoy the views across Grasmere and Rydal Water which nestle below Grassmere Common on to the north west and the imposing Helvellyn to the north east. This track is often cluttered up with day trippers from Ambleside as the walk around Loughrigg Terrace and over Loughrigg Fell is within spitting distance of the town. It was almost 9pm by the time we reached the terrace.
Ambleside
The once sleepy village of Ambleside is now a fully fledged honey trap. It's at its least attractive in the summer on a weekend when every man and his dog show up. After some check-in faffage at the hostel we dumped our bikes in the van and grabbed a quick shower. KT, Wiggo and myself jogged into the centre of Ambleside (half a mile from the YHA) where Cleggy and Chris had kept the kitchens of The Queens Hotel open for us. We phoned our order through - two lamb Henry's and a steak and ale pie. Glorious. We were famished and wolfed down the meal. Bizarely the Queens Hotel insists on paying for meals and beers upfront, the rules were strictly enforced, it seemed a little out of keeping with the grandeur of the building and location, all a bit Wetherspoons really. New fact of the day: The Queens Hotel used to be a youth hostel.
With renewed energy we skipped off to The Unicorn, a decent place with two real ales on and Mick Mead & guest playing a few folk numbers to the packed audience. We walked over the threshold and squeezed our way to the bar. It was absolutely roasting inside and raining outside. There was a bit of a commotion and the next thing we knew Toddy was being bear hugged by some of his mates from back home who had been training for a trip to Everest. Quite a coincidence. I was pleased the day had ended on a high for Toddy as the first half of the ride was quite a test of patience, we walked a lot more than we rode which is very frustrating. In hindsight I would have skipped Harter Fell/Dunnerdale in such wet conditions.
Is it a pub? Is it a club? No it's a Youth Hostel
We walked home in the rain, we were happy as we'd been well fed and equally well watered. We popped into a 'trendy wine bar' on the way home. This is the first venue of it's kind that I can recall in Ambleside and another sign that modern life is sadly catching up with the town, eating away at it's soul, but we weren't exactly complaining so maybe I'm being hypocritical! Upon our return to the hostel Lee and I settled down with a solitary bottle of Spitfire each and were recounting the events of the day when we were politely informed that we were not allowed to consume our own beer in the hostel. The night porter illustrated his point by asking us if we'd take our own beer into a pub. Wiggo gently pointed out that we were in a youth hostel as opposed to a nightclub. Hmm, things really are changing for the worse. The night porter's manner wasn't the most concilliatory so we failed to comply with his request. Ten minutes later he popped back and made his point again, informing us that he may have to call his supervisor and asking what I thought about that. I suggested that his manager might not appreciate a phone call this late at night. That seemed to do the trick.
Losing the Plot
Now then, I appreciate this chap had to do his job and that England is the worst country in the world for inventing arbitrary rules and regulations that do not make sense but not being able to have your own quiet pint in a youth hostel is just plain wrong. Ambleside YHA has only had a bar installed in recent years, the night porter was blissfully unaware that we've been staying in that hostel for many years, in fact I've still got keys for half the rooms! The youth hostel movement seems to be in a modernisation phase but in certain areas, this being one of them, looks to be falling between two stools. It's busy commercialising it's hostels; offering a greater range of facilities and services and so on but at the same time is in danger of become just another cheap hotel chain. Let me explain: the prices are not much cheaper than B&Bs by the time you've bought a breakfast, yet you still have to make your own beds up, sleep with randoms and so on. The YHA as an organisation has undergone significant change over the past decade, not least announcing the closure of many sites in order to reduce its debt burden, so there is economic pressure to squeeze the sponge a bit harder, but if you squeeze it too hard eventually no more water will come out. Having a beer after a long days ride should not be a crime.
Slideshow
Here's a slideshow, clicking on it will link you through to the web album which contains lots of pictures from Day 2. Grand.
Eskdale YHA
A quick note on Eskdale YHA, the service has improved considerably since we were there last, it was great to see that it is no longer run by members of the Hitler Youth. In fact our hosts were pleasant, friendly and helpful. Unfortunately the drying room didn't quite dry our sodden clothes fully and so this morning we had to wear our damp biking gear and slip into soggy boots. This YHA now has an electronic key-code door lock which greatly facilitates late nights at the local pubs, superb idea. The hostel also had a bar area - a new innovation, but the prices were not much cheaper than at the pub. Overall though Eskdale YHA gets a thumbs up.
Harter Fell, Dunnerdale Forest, Fickle Crag
Upon leaving the hostel we headed towards Hardknott Pass on the road for 2km. We took a bridleway on the right at a cattle grid, just before the road starts to get steep. Things didn't look good at this point as it appeared that our route was now a full on river. We crossed the river and were relieved to find a proper bridleway. After passing through a couple of gates the single track became very steep and began to resemble a log-flume rather than a bicycle track. Clearly the rain that had fallen in the night was making it's way off the mountains via any route it could. We had to carry our bikes a fair bit, party because of the gradient and partly because of the foot-or-so of water that was meandering down the hill in the opposite direction.
It didn't get any better on the top either. Ulpha fell was awash, our track was riddled with bogs caused by streams crossing it at regular intervals. Next it was a trudge through the outskirts of Dunnerdale Forest. After taking a right turn under Kepple Crag we were soon back on the bikes and taking on some challenging single track aided by a gentle downward gradient. We crossed Grassguards Gill a couple of times, it was in flood evidenced by the waters flowing over rather than under wooden crossing points. We came to a farm and crossed Grassguards again at the ford. The current was very strong at the ford. We were undecided whether or not it was ridable or whether the current would flush out to sea. We walked the crossing a few times to test it, (it was only a couple of feet high), each time we did so we could feel the water trying to knock us off our feet. It might be quite tricky on a bike, if it washed a wheel away you would definitely end up swimming after your bike down the white water. Wiggo and I were too committed so we lined up and went for it whilst KT took some action shots. As it turns out it was fine, but there was potential for a slip up. Immediately after the ford we took a narrow bridleway into the trees to the left of Grassguards Gill as you head downwards. It's easy to miss. The single track along here was great if you're technically up to it. It's tight and slow with some big rock drops and rooty sections. Neither Lee or I cleaned it, we weren't far off though. KT found it a bit hard work on the hard tail. By this stage I was hoping that Kieran's sense of humour wouldn't desert him, it's bad enough having to walk up a hill never mind walk along the top then down the other side! The three of us then bombed down Fickle Crag which again has a couple of excellent technical challenges in the dry. In the wet they are all but lethal, the sort where you just point the bike down the hill and it's in the lap of the gods whether or not you lose a wheel on the slippy, slimy surface. It was like riding on ice on some parts. Still, it was better than walking!
The descent terminated at the Duddon River. Just as we arrived at the crossing there was a chap crossing the river via the submerged stepping stones, holding onto a cable. His three companions, another bloke and two ladies were encouraging our middle-aged Scandinavian(?) friend across. He looked fairly wobbly and sure enough took a full dive into the swim before flailing around a bit and holding on to the cable for dear life. I thought we were going to have to go in and save him but he managed to hold on and haul himself to safety on our side of the river. We crossed the river with the bikes without much problem. KT just waded through, Wiggo and I opted for the stepping stone route. It was like taking part in one of those Japanese game shows. After the river crossing you then have another short push up High Tongue for about 200 meters before turning right onto a road (which we were quite glad to see), then take your first road on the left to Long House.
Walna Scar
There's no two ways about it, the climb up Walna Scar isn't much fun. Last night I described it to an inqusitive lady (who was cradling a baby at the time) as "a bit of a grunt". The Wizard had rather amusingly misheard my turn of phrase and thought I'd just introduced the infant to it's first four letter c-word. The route up is signposted as Walna Scar Road and takes you up to Brown Crag, a short distance to the summit of Coniston Old Man. The first half of the climb is pretty much unridable unfortunately as some bright spark has been making 'surface improvements'. Sadly we'd left our Sherman tanks at home and so riding up a steep hill full of gravel was a bit hard. After the second gate the track is of a much better grade and is all ridable. We finally attained the summit and were blessed with stunning views westward out to the coast over Black Combe and then inland over Coniston and into central lakeland. The sunlight danced in and out of the clouds illuminating patches of the two valleys below. We savoured the moment before dropping our seats down and taking on the descent into Consiton town.
The top of the descent is a rocky affair, you have to pick your lines reasonably carefully or risk going over the bars as big drops present themselves without much warning, especially on a couple of tight bends. Walkers usually watch agog at this point, but they are generally courteous and make way for you, especially if you're dialled in. The hard part is trying to acknowledge their courteousness whilst concentrating on the next set of obstacles. You can't take your eyes off the track for a split second really. The rocky top section gives way to a fast flowing grassy mid-section which has a few little jumps you can hop over. The gradient reduces somewhat as you take a left fork and end up on a well-graded fire road that itself subsides into a small but very steep country lane which spits you out at The Sun in Conisiton where we engaged in a much deserved pint.
Slow Progress
We were supposed to be meeting Chris and Cleggy at Yewdale Tea Rooms just north of Coniston in the mid-afternoon, however my estimate of how quickly we'd traverse Harter Fell and Walna Scar were wildly optimistic thanks to the weather and, erm, my wild optimism. Van driver Clegg and Co-pilot Chris had ridden over from Ambleside and over Iron Keld (a nice bridleway) and after imbibing 27 cups of tea each had decided to cycle back to Ambleside YHA. At this point we had the option to crack on straight back to the hostel but it was turning out to be a lovely evening so we dismissed any thoughts of cheating and committed to going the long way around. We're glad we did as it produced some of the best views and most enjoyable riding on the route.
High Tilberthwaite, Little Langdale, Elterwater, Loughrigg Terrace
After resisting the urge for a second pint we headed north out of Coniston and after 2km on a bridleway just to the left of the road took the first lane on the left. It climbs upwards and past some old mine workings. The road peters out at a farm, we took the right hand fork and whizzed down the well graded track underneath the Tilberthwaite Fells, through Moss Rigg Wood and into Little Langdale. This is a good little bridleway and a great cut-through away from the madding crowds. From here we headed to Elterwater up a dead-end lane that again turned into a well graded track. We stopped for photos and to watch the cows grazing in the evening sunlight before heading through a working quarry which had three massive yellow trucks for carting the granite around. We dropped down to the B5343 and took on began the final climb of the day up up the side of Loughrigg Fell. Turn right onto a bridleway just after the road summit and enjoy the views across Grasmere and Rydal Water which nestle below Grassmere Common on to the north west and the imposing Helvellyn to the north east. This track is often cluttered up with day trippers from Ambleside as the walk around Loughrigg Terrace and over Loughrigg Fell is within spitting distance of the town. It was almost 9pm by the time we reached the terrace.
Ambleside
The once sleepy village of Ambleside is now a fully fledged honey trap. It's at its least attractive in the summer on a weekend when every man and his dog show up. After some check-in faffage at the hostel we dumped our bikes in the van and grabbed a quick shower. KT, Wiggo and myself jogged into the centre of Ambleside (half a mile from the YHA) where Cleggy and Chris had kept the kitchens of The Queens Hotel open for us. We phoned our order through - two lamb Henry's and a steak and ale pie. Glorious. We were famished and wolfed down the meal. Bizarely the Queens Hotel insists on paying for meals and beers upfront, the rules were strictly enforced, it seemed a little out of keeping with the grandeur of the building and location, all a bit Wetherspoons really. New fact of the day: The Queens Hotel used to be a youth hostel.
With renewed energy we skipped off to The Unicorn, a decent place with two real ales on and Mick Mead & guest playing a few folk numbers to the packed audience. We walked over the threshold and squeezed our way to the bar. It was absolutely roasting inside and raining outside. There was a bit of a commotion and the next thing we knew Toddy was being bear hugged by some of his mates from back home who had been training for a trip to Everest. Quite a coincidence. I was pleased the day had ended on a high for Toddy as the first half of the ride was quite a test of patience, we walked a lot more than we rode which is very frustrating. In hindsight I would have skipped Harter Fell/Dunnerdale in such wet conditions.
Is it a pub? Is it a club? No it's a Youth Hostel
We walked home in the rain, we were happy as we'd been well fed and equally well watered. We popped into a 'trendy wine bar' on the way home. This is the first venue of it's kind that I can recall in Ambleside and another sign that modern life is sadly catching up with the town, eating away at it's soul, but we weren't exactly complaining so maybe I'm being hypocritical! Upon our return to the hostel Lee and I settled down with a solitary bottle of Spitfire each and were recounting the events of the day when we were politely informed that we were not allowed to consume our own beer in the hostel. The night porter illustrated his point by asking us if we'd take our own beer into a pub. Wiggo gently pointed out that we were in a youth hostel as opposed to a nightclub. Hmm, things really are changing for the worse. The night porter's manner wasn't the most concilliatory so we failed to comply with his request. Ten minutes later he popped back and made his point again, informing us that he may have to call his supervisor and asking what I thought about that. I suggested that his manager might not appreciate a phone call this late at night. That seemed to do the trick.
Losing the Plot
Now then, I appreciate this chap had to do his job and that England is the worst country in the world for inventing arbitrary rules and regulations that do not make sense but not being able to have your own quiet pint in a youth hostel is just plain wrong. Ambleside YHA has only had a bar installed in recent years, the night porter was blissfully unaware that we've been staying in that hostel for many years, in fact I've still got keys for half the rooms! The youth hostel movement seems to be in a modernisation phase but in certain areas, this being one of them, looks to be falling between two stools. It's busy commercialising it's hostels; offering a greater range of facilities and services and so on but at the same time is in danger of become just another cheap hotel chain. Let me explain: the prices are not much cheaper than B&Bs by the time you've bought a breakfast, yet you still have to make your own beds up, sleep with randoms and so on. The YHA as an organisation has undergone significant change over the past decade, not least announcing the closure of many sites in order to reduce its debt burden, so there is economic pressure to squeeze the sponge a bit harder, but if you squeeze it too hard eventually no more water will come out. Having a beer after a long days ride should not be a crime.
Slideshow
Here's a slideshow, clicking on it will link you through to the web album which contains lots of pictures from Day 2. Grand.
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