Friday, 7 August 2009

Coast To Coast Day 5

Summary

Distance: 76.9 km Estimated Time: 7:41
Total Ascent: 1554 m Total Descent: 1710 m

Route




Elevation Profile





Slideshow




You Tube

Best on a big screen in HD, otherwise it looks a bit grainy and naff ...





Description

This is the fifth and final day of our offroad coast-to-coast bike ride.

Onwards and Upwards
We awoke to the welcoming breakfast smells eminating from the Golden Lion kitchen. Last night we'd eaten our fill and collapsed into the welcoming arms of sleep well before midnight. Unfortunately I had a wrestless nights sleep despite the bed being easily the most comfortable of the trip. I think it was just a bit too cosy, the pillows were too plump (there's no pleasing some folk eh?!)

We breakfasted well on a full English (not ideal biking fodder but it was paid for so it was jolly well going to be eaten!). Jon had to head back home and Cleggy would drive the van. Finding accommodation at this late stage in Whitby proved nigh on impossible so we settled for Scarborough. With such formalities taken care off Kieran, Lee and I paused for a team photograph then forced our achey frames onto the bikes. At this stage the hole in my shorts was becoming positively obscene but bereft of a needle and thread there was nothing for it but to sit back in the saddle and try not to make it any worse.

The North York Moors
The're was rain in them there clouds as we peddled merrily northwards out of sleepy Osmotherley and past Cod Beck Reservoir. You need to keep a careful look out for the right hand turn onto the Cleveland Way, it's just by a cattle grid at Scarth Nick. We headed through the wooded Lime Kiln Bank and dropped down to Scugdale Beck on a narrow country lane. At this point the valley steepens and just like on day one when approaching Black Sail Pass, there appears to be no way out. There is ofcourse, but unfortunately it's up a nasty rutted track that was unridable at the time due to the recent rainfall. There is a track just to the right that looks much better, but it's private. In future I'd be tempted to use that instead. We pushed up the climb and were soon looking down on Barkers Crags, a precariously perched rock face that Kieran used to do hone his rock-climbing skills on when younger. We summited then let the hands off the brakes as we flew down towards Wath. At this point I messed up the navigation, you're not supposed to ride straight past the farmhouse but we did and we weren't about to go back up the way we'd came. Apologies to the farmer.

Urra Moor
After a little bit of twisty-windy country lane-age we found ourselves in Chop Gate, a wonderfully named place just up the road from Cock Flat would you believe. Here we could see the imposingly vast Urra Moor ascending hundreds of meters from Bilsdale Beck. We considered two possible routes up, one heading up from Seave Green, the other a few k's north opposite Hasty Bank. Neither looked very friendly and as it happens I was having a bad day with the map, so we missed the Seave Green option and had to battle the forces of gravity on the north western flank of the moor. We met a few walkers on this section, and were forced to walk ourselves up the stepped-moorside. In ten minutes or so we were atop Urra Moor and the views were worth it. Backwards (to the west) were the moors we'd just skipped over, to the north was Middlesborough, contrasting nature's beauty with mankinds beast, typified by Billingham's billowing chemical plants (formerly ICI). The site was Ridley Scotts inspiration for the city-scape of Bladerunner. Then looking eastwards we have the rest of the North York Moors National Park panning out and begging to be ridden over!

The moor top was covered with heather, it was a beautiful sight, a whole hillside bedecked in royal purple. Enough of that! We battled the cross-wind and reached the trig point at Round Hill on a well graded sandy track and made our way to the Bloworth Crossing. From here you can pick up a disused railway line that curves around Farndale Moor. The railway line (variously named Ingleby and Rosedale) was built in the early 1860's to haul iron from Rosedale. At it's peak half-a-million tonnes of iron a year was excavated. The line closed in the mid 1920's. The conditions up here in the winter must have been terrible, we rode this in mid-summer and the wind was howling and the rain threatening to derail us. After rounding Farndale Moor the wind was at our backs and we made good progress along the railway line. Then the heavens opened.

The Lion Inn
We ducked for cover at the Lion Inn. We've passed this place by on several occasions, convinced it was actually The Slaughtered Lamb pub in American Werewolf in London. It just has that air about it! Needs must though and as we entered the little doorway we were suddenly in a whole new world. From the outside the pub looked empty, but when we nosed inside it was brimming with walkers who'd taken shelter and availed themselves of the facilities. Marvellous! A steak sandwich and pint later and musing about spending a New Years Eve here, we reluctantly braved the elements and went forth north.

Glaisedale Moor
Visibility was low as the cloud enveloped us. We stayed on the road, heading accross Danby High Moor and then south towards Rosedale before spotting a left (you have to be alert for it) that takes you right onto Glaisedale Moor. The singletrack at this point is a mixture of stone slabs and heather roots. It's fairly narrow and a little tricky in these conditions. We'd turned out of the wind at last and now it was at our backs. I stood up tall on my bike and just let the wind use my body as a sail until we stopped for a photo as the clouds parted and revealed the U-shaped valley that is Great Fryupdale. The moodiness of the skies added to the view as shafts of sunlight illuminated the valley below. Stunning really.

We cracked on with the wind still at our backs and I really enjoyed the terrain along the High Moor/Glaisedale ridge. We were able to ride it at pace which made fun single track into really fun single track. After a short but sweet road section along Glaisedale Rigg we picked up a wide track that deposited us in Glaisedale itself in no time at all. With the winds' assistance we had outridden the celestial menace. As we looked back it looked fairly ugly. We'd lost a lot of height too by now.

You Are The Weakest Link
The only way was up from here. It was batting it down again so we stayed on road instead of taking a cheeky little offroad section through East Arnecliff Wood (is it any good?). The road was steep and rather nicely named Limber Hill. Unfortunately my chain wasn't feeling too limber as I stomped my way up the hill. I'd left it in a big gear to be fair and instead of dropping down just thought I'd force my way up the incline. My chain had other ideas. I felt it go and eased off just enough to leave the link not quite completely severed. I walked to the top of the hill (defeat!) where Wiggo and I fixed the chain accompanied by Kieran who took some pictures of my predicament as well as a couple of friendly chickens which seemed to be taking an interest in our antics.

Egton Bridge and Grosmont
Having been punished for not taking the offroad route through the woods a Glaisedale we took to a grand little section of doubletrack that runs between the two villages of Egton Bridge and Grosmont. It is flanked on the northern side by the Grosmont railway line and on the southern side by the river Esk, which flows from the moors all the way to Whitby. After a bit of front detailer adjustment to my bike (the shortened chain had been causing some grinding sound effects for a couple of k's) we were soon in Grosmont. For the first time today the sun had properly poked it's head out from behind the clouds. It was lovely to have the sun on our backs for a change. No time to stand and stare at Grosmont's quaint 1950's railway station, instead we debated going through the valley floor and around Sleights Moor because we were running out of daylight, but as the sun was shining we decided to take on the last big climb of the journey.

Sleights Moor
The road climb up the western side of Sleights Moor is fairly harsh as far as road climbs go. It's not exactly long, but it is steep, about a 1 in 3. At this stage in proceedings it's just another hill. My legs were feeling fine and indeed the last time we did this trip I remember flying up this hill as if it weren't really there (slight exaggeration, but you get the point). It's amazing how the human body quickly adapts to the demands we place upon it. Five days ago this climb would have been hard work, today it feels like a gentle warm up, something to be relished. The best thing about getting to the top of Sleights Moor is that unless the weather is absolutely abyssmal, you are virtually guaranteed a sighting of the sea. Sure enough Whitby Abbey came into view and beyond it the shores of the North Sea. Get In!

Dude, Where's My Bridleway?
With the finishing line tantalisingly in close (you can't actually see Robin Hoods Bay just yet (RHB from now on)), we headed straight accross the A169 and onto a gated gravel track. There had been some significant 'land-reassignment' works going on here at Greenlands Howe. We could see a ridge in the distance that we'd have to climb up and over in order to drop down to the coast beyond, unfortunately someone had moved the bridleway and forgotten to mention it. After no small amount of head scratching resulting in me getting split up from Kieran and Lee for a while as I scouted a new route, we eventually picked up a bridleway that did exist and found ourselves somewhere near Leas Head Farm. Sign-posting of tracks seems optional in this area so we fumbled along Parsley Beck to Foss Farm, through Falling Foss (a waterfall presumably) and then up onto a road at long last. This section was messy and hardwork in terms of navigation I'm not sure I'd recommend it. If you have the time (as we did last trip) I'd recommend cruising over Fylingdales Moor - it's a fair distance longer but the tracks are better and more navigable. Fortunately Lee and Kieran were able to put up with me getting us lost on the brink of darkness one last time. Sorry lads!

Robin Hoods Bay
Once on the road we hot footed it Le Tour style towards RHB. As the sunlight faded we put our heads down for one final push to the finish line. The sight of Kieran going over the crest of the road on the B1447 was a splendid one as the vast expanse of ocean came into view.

The road plunges downwards towards the village. We spotted Cleggy's van faithfully awaiting our belated arrival. Within seconds we were taking in the views of the bay. We had a couple of photographs at the top part of the village then hooned down to the beach for a couple more. It must've been gone 9pm by the time we arrived. Just time for a celebratory pint at Wainwrights pub!

Post-ride we loaded the van (I'd snapped my chain again hoiking up the steep road that climbs out of the village, whoops!) and went headed to the Scarborough Fair Hotel. After a mighty quick shower we skipped into town and stopped at the first curry house we came accross, called Tikka Tikka. We wasted no time in launching into a couple of king-sized bottles of Cobra before replenishing our depleted energy reserves with some much needed fodder. You beauty!








Coast To Coast Day 4

In progress ...

Summary

Route Distance: 87 km Estimated Time: 8:42
Total Ascent: 1243 m Total Descent: 1418 m

Elevation Profile

From misc

It's a bit hillier than this but I'm missing some map data, hence the flat-lining.

Route Map

From misc

Slideshow



You Tube
Big screen HD all the way ...




Ride Description

Kirkby Stephen
One thing you notice about Kirkby Stephen is that it is full of Churches. There seems to be more churches of various Christian denominations than people. Given that 'Kirk' means church I suppose that's fair enough. Infact our hostel is anold Methodist church, and has been for over 20 years. It is on the route of four Long Distance Walkers paths including the Coast to Coast and is one of a new breed of independent hostels, sold off by the YHA in 2006.

After saying adieu to The Wizard we breakfasted on anything with carbohydrates in it whilst The Reverend James gave us a sermon from the pulpit about the evils of materialism. We agreed to donate all our worldy possessions to the reverend immediately after washing up.

Not too much faffing today, we jumped on our bikes and lined up for a team photo at which point a very jovial lady sprang into our midst and began regailing us of tales of how friendly the town was compared to where she used to live in southern England. She was charming if not a little erm, 'senior'. She bid us a pleasant journey and KT, Wiggo, The Rear and myself headed up the road towards Reeth some 22 miles east.


Nateby Common
As usual the ride begins with a nice warm up as you climb up Nateby Common. You can do this climb off-road but the bridleway is boggy so it's best just to crack on up the road until reaching the summit at around 500 meters height. From here you are afforded views westward accross the low plains back towards the Lakes, south west to the Howgills, south to High Pike and Ingleborough beyond that. Looking north you can see Nine Standards Rig and eastward, our onward direction, Birkdale Common pans out. The sun was shining and it was time to say goodbye to Cumbria and hello to North Yorkshire. KT and Wiggo are both Yorkshiremen, The Rear and myself hail from t'other side of the pennines.

To Keld
The road meanders up and down along the top of Birkdale Common for a couple of miles before plummeting down towards Keld. We kept our eyes peeled for the source of the River Swale. As it turns out it starts in lots of little becks that make their way down Ravenseat and Birkdale Moors, culminating in two becks that meet at a fork and this fork is where the River Swale begins. So know we're all a bit wiser. At Keld you turn left off the B6270 and head towards the church at Keld (sign posted 'Keld Only'). After dropping down 100 yards or so pick up a bridleway on your right. It immediately crosses the Swale and in no time at all you'll find yourself stripping off and feeling the full force of Catrake Force on your back, very refreshing!

Swaledale
Swaledale is one of the wilder and narrower of the main Yorkshire Dales’ valleys. Its tributary Arkengarthdale can seem even more remote. The River Swale dominates the valley. The hillsides are steep and the valley bottom is narrow making it great for riding and providing some fantastic views which is great as we'll be riding along it for miles and miles and miles! There's lots more intersting information about Swaledale here.


Crackpot
We continued on the bridleway as it follows the river through the cuttings. The scenery is fantastic and the riding easy. This section is probably my favourite part of the ride. We stopped to have a sit on a delapidated old grey Fergie tractor before cracking on through Crackpot, along the valley bottom and then onto a mettled lane that skirts around Ivelet Moor. KT, a virtual local to these parts informed me that we were on the 'old coffin road' - as it was used in times gone by to transport the deceased to Richmond for burial. There were some lovely stone houses enroute, all looking cosy enough to keep you warm through the long winter months wrapped up next to a warm fire. As it happens the weather was reasonbly nice, dappled sunshine and about 65 degrees Farenheit. The road undulates a tad as it is traversed by numerous becks that feed into the Swale, not least Gunnerside Gill. KT tells me there are good bridleways to take around here, sadly we have to crack on on the road. We passed through Healaugh (a former Lewis family holiday venue) before cruising into Reeth.

Reeth
Reeth is at the meeting point of Arkengarthdale with Swaledale. It became the economic hub of the lead industry and grew enormously in the 18th century. Its 18th-century houses and hotels are clustered around a triangular green as are three pubs and a bakery which we availed ourselves of. We had a cheeky half at the Buck Hotel which was staffed by a very friendly lady and served Hambleton Ale. Grand.

It was time to swap van driving duties, so JP jumped into the van and Cleggy donned his best swimming trunks. At this point we'd covered about 35km but still had another 55km to go so we
jumped back on the bikes and cruised out of Reeth into the village of Fremington (another Lewis family holiday destination) before crossing the river at Grinton. As we rode through Fremington we spotted a new biking centre.

Richmond
The guide book says "Richmond is a market town on the River Swale in North Yorkshire, England and is the administrative centre of the district of Richmondshire. Situated on the edge of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, it is a popular tourist destination." What it doesn't tell you is that it also has it's fair share of drunken chavs gathered around the obelisk in the cobbled square centre. Lots's more interesting historical facts about Richmond here. We didn't have a great deal of time to lounge around the vibrant square or even to pop down to the water falls if we wanted to be in Osmotherley before dark. At this point KT took up the navigation conjugals as last time I managed to get us lost in Catterick and we ended up at a racecourse.

Country Lanes
KT led us through Brompton-on-Swale before taking us to Scorton - a fascinating little village with a raised cricket pitch as it's centre-piece. An excellent idea, all villages should have at least one. We soaked up the warm evening rays before heading off along quiet country lanes lapping up the harvest time aromas as they drifted on the breeze. Just before entering Danby Wiske we were stopped by a train at a level-crossing. At this point we noticed a herd of water buffalo serenely grazing in an adjacent field. It felt almost as incongruous an experience as sighting the Cop Stone on Moor Divock yesterday. There is was, and there we have it. Heads down now for the final push, 15kms through Brompton, over the A19 and a final climb into Osmotherley. The Golden Lion Inn was a welcoming sight.

Osmotherley
...is a great little village sadly overlooked by Alfred Wainwright in his coast-to-coast guide. We treated ourselves to a pre-prandial ale or two before freshening up and sitting down to a slap up meal. Cleggy informed us that this was his first ever three-course meal which surprised us as he's such a big strapping lad.

The rooms were excellent as was the food (although the king prawn starter was a bit pricey for what it was). The walk-in showers were just what tired muscles and an achey back needed, good pressure, big stainless steel shower heads and stone floors. There's nothing like a good shower for sorting you out at the end of a long day in the saddle.

With bellys full and a glowing complexion from the warm Yorkshire sunshine we made our way to bed, "tired but satisfied with days" I think the phrase goes.

Coast To Coast Day 3

Ambleside to Kirkby Stephen

Summary

Route Distance: 74 km Estimated Time: 7:24
Total Ascent: 1849 m Total Descent: 1713 m

Elevation Profile



Route Map





Slideshow

View it here or click to see the full monty


YouTube
Big screen and HD mode looks best


Route Description
Morning Preparations
The day started with a photoshoot of me huddled up on my lower bunk, looking less than ravishing no doubt! After the last two days' worth of riding the other lads had surely been busily preparing a whole list of excuses why they should drive the van today!

My Plan
We were joined by Jon 'The Rear' Pearson who was last seen kicking footballs at small children in Kent. The plan was for me and Jon to ride with the main pack up The Struggle, down to Hartsop and then split up and we'd climb Hartsop onto the High Street, bomb down there then back up Boredale to Boredale Hause then down some crackingly demanding ST down into Patterdale. Meanwhile Clegg, Toddy, The Wizard and Wiggo would crack on eastwards to Kirkby Stephen by which point The Rear and I would climbed Kirkstone Pass upto the Inn, hang a right and landed back in Ambleside. A fairly big day for all concerned.

The Actual Plan

After cooking a full English of Crunchy Nut Cornflakes and milk (I think a few succumbed to the lure of a cooked breakfast in the canteen) we re-fuelled and watered for the day and then discussed our options. It became clear that my original plan was looking less than appealing to the rest of the team! I was happy to complete as much of the ride as was left as I could (although the Boredale ST was calling!) so myself, KT and Wiggo were to ride all the way from Ambleside to Kirkby Stephen. Cleggy and Jon would drive to Hartsop and do the Hartsop Loop but instead of hitting Boredale, they'd do the Ullswater ST in the better of the two directions (westward), we'd unfortunately be heading east so may meet them on route. The Wizard would drive JPs car to Patterdale and circumnavigate Ullswater, sharing the offroad bits with me, Toddy and Wiggo.

Repairs
Wiggo changed his rear tyre as it was a bit worn and didn't afford him enough grip yesterday. KT moved his mudguard higher on his seat post so he could drop his seat down further at descent time. Cleggy strapped a microwave to his seat stay. That's about it repair wise.

Frank Boff
After much faffage and noting that the YHA jetty was completely submerged by the lake - it had rained that much recently, we lined up for the obligatory team photograph outside the hostel then went our different ways.

As you leave Ambleside YH heading into town on the bike you hit a one way system that is a bit of a pain of a diversion for cyclists. We slowed down and quietly went along the footpath. Wiggo had his first comedy moment of the day where he hopped up the kerb with his front wheel but the back refused to follow, the bike kicked him off and and he ended up commando rolling into a nearby B&B! Hehe, most accidents happen at home as they say!

The Struggle
As a nice warm up for the rest of the ride we took on The Struggle which goes on for about 45 minutes at a steady-Eddy pace. You climb about up to about 1500ft on a narrow country lane. The climb is all manageable on a mountain bike and is quite a nice warm up, stretching tired muscles and heating them to a temperature where they are no longer tight and stiff. We encountered quite a bit of traffic in both directions, caravans and camper vans fairly struggle getting up there and there aren't many passing points. The Struggle flattens out about three-quarters of the way up and then dips a little but the respite is short-lived as the final hoik up to the Kirkstone Pass Inn is a sharp little fella consisting of a few switchbacks which are both tight and steep. We made it up there without much fuss and had a photoshoot at the top just to cool ourselves down a bit.

Kirkstone Pass
Upon reaching the pub which sits on a T-junction there is only one way to go - down! We were heading to Patterdale via Brothers Water. This always seems a bit of a waste to me, losing so much height on tarmac but as far as I'm aware there's not an offroad route available. Instead you hoon down the tarmac. At this point you can go quicker than cars as they can't go around corners as fast as bikes. So you can build up a bit of speed and frighten the life out of Mr Family of Four as he spots the incongruous sight of a wide-eyed cyclist buzzing around in his wing mirror like an angry wasp. Belting it down to the bottom at top whack can deprive you of some beautiful views of Patterdale and Brothers Water so if you're a scenery lover stop off on the left and take in the views. If you're keen-eyed you'll also spot the Kirk Stone - a stone that looks like a church (Kirk meaning church in ancient Yurdy Gurdy).

Crack on past Brothers Water and if you've not ripped it up on the flat bits then Mr Family of Four or Retired Couple from Northumberland will soon be catching you up and shaking their heads like you've just voted for the BNP, twice.

Patterdale
It's got a shop selling Cumberland sausage butties so it's all good. We stopped here for a second breakfast after meeting up with The Wizard. It was turning out to be quite a sunny day so we de-jacketed and crossed a little bridge and headed up to Rooking, and climbed a sharp bridleway that skirts around to Silver Point at the foot of the imposing Place Fell. From this track we were afforded wonderful views of Helvellyn et al. which provided a stunning back drop for Patterdale and Glenriding which were nestled peacefully on the far side of the lake. You've got two options of bridleway between Rooking and Silver Point. The lowest of the two is naturally the easiest but the upper balcony route gives you the best views.

Ullswater
Many regard Ullswater as the most beautiful of the English lakes. In fact Wordsworth wrote: "it is the happiest combination of beauty and grandeur, which any of the lakes affords". The lake itself is a typical Lake District narrow "ribbon lake" formed after the last ice age when a glacier scooped out the valley floor and when the glacier retreated, the deepened section filled with meltwater which became a lake. The surrounding mountains give Ullswater the shape of an elongated 'Z' with three distinct segments (or 'reaches') that wend their way through the surrounding hills.

Ullswater Single Track
Dubbed 'Best Single Track in England' by more than one glossy mountain bike magazine, Ullswater Single Track (UST from herein) is a fun roller coaster of a route that seems to go on and on and on. It's more ridable in the westward direction ie. after dropping in off the High Street but it's still alright going eastward, there are just more sections that are unridable on the way up. It's all ridable downwards, one or two fairly hefty drops though and some good off-camber moments which can easily send you down the steep banks and into the lake 100 meters or so below. I enjoyed the ST but had forgotten how much you have to get on and off the bike which was a bit frustrating. To make matters worse we hit this section at primo walker time - nae good!

Walkers
Ok, here's my two-penneth worth when it comes to interactions between mountain bikers and walkers. Bearing in mind that as a group we always try and be polite to walkers, we will always give way to walkers if necessary when on shared bridleways and we always say 'hello' when approaching this rather unique breed - they tend not to appreciate the element of surprise.

In my experience 90% of walkers are are fine and jovial (if perhaps a bit 'special', come on, you know what I mean!). Then there is the 10% that are just downright miserable. Why the Fred Funk are they out there in the first place if they're just going to moan? Stay indoors and moan at your spouse. What's that, they've gone to the pub - I wonder why?!

This select band of depressives I'm on about seem to take great delight in trying to spoil everyones fun. For instance whilst we were delicately making our way along the UST,(it's only wide enough for one person in many parts) hopping off if needs be in order to show that we care about footpath folk too, we had this one woman who told us that she 'preferred to walk rather than cycle' and couldn't understand why anyone would want to cycle when walking was far easier. Bearing in mind we're at Ullswater at the time, a good 150 miles from our destination, I politely informed her that she was welcome to walk to Robin Hoods Bay with us and and I'd ask her opinion again in two days time.

Another bint informed us that the bridleway we were on was impractical for riding on (even though we'd all stopped and moved to the side and bid her party of four a good day, she was the last, dragging her feet like a begrudging teenager perhaps?). She then declared that there was a sign further on (from whence they'd came - we were travelling in opposite directions) that forbade cyclist from using the path. Not so my dear, otherwise several leading national mountain bike magazines would have had slapped wrists for suggesting the best cycle track in the country was infact a footpath. I didn't even bother to put her straight, her long suffering husband seemed to be dragging her away from causing a scene, he'd given us a cheery 'hello' just moments before. Rant over!

One more little anecdote whilst I'm on one. We met a couple of walkers, and old chap and a lady in her mid-40's. They were walking tentatively towards us on a rocky section of the UST. I was at the front of our 4-man cycle train and shouted 'Hello' hopefully to put our two new friends at ease. No response. Slightly irked but giving them the benefit of the doubt and getting within eye-contact distance I looked the old man in the eye and said 'Hello, lovely day isn't it?!' Still no response, the ignorant coffin dodger. I'm getting fed up of these types. Then, as we got really close I noticed there was something a bit different about this chap, he had two hearing aids in and wore a 'Kendal Deaf Society' jumper. Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh foot out of mouth, I take it all back!

Hallin Fell
The UST terminates at Sandwick. Turn right onto the country lane and follow the lanes around the back of Hallin Fell. We took a bridleway at this point but it was unridable and overgrown so "stick t'road, stay clear o' moor". Hallin Fell seems to act as a fulcrum around which Ullswater pivots. You can't cycle around the front of the Fell and therefore don't get the benefit of the great views along the lake unfortunately. No matter, once at the top of the road that leads to Howtown we turned right at St Peter's church (the sermons there must be fantastic as the car park was choc-a-bloc!), over a blind grassy summit and then swiftly down towards Howtown on smooth grassy bridleway. We crossed Fusedale Beck and then climbed back up onto a mixture of single and double track that is all ridable and well graded. There are a few fords to cross as various becks meander across the track discharging themselves into Ullswater below and to our left. At this point we met Cleggy and The Rear who had just descended from the High Street. After having a snack and another photo we had to crack on. The path took us upward underneath Barton Fell giving us great views looking back towards Hallin Fell. We stopped for lunch and simply took in the magnificence of it all.

Slow Progress
At this point we'd ridden about 25km out of 75km and were conscious that we'd have to make good time in order to arrive in Kirkby Stephen before dark. The terrain from here on in is much more conducive to making rapid progress. If the first 25km takes you three or four hours then the next 50k's should take about the same amount of time, so don't panic. From the top of Moor Divock we could just about make out our final destination way off in the distance as the Yorkshire Dales gathered like a pod of whales surfacing for air on the eastern horizon.

Moor Divock
Finally the bridleway brought us level with the eastern tip of Ullswater. At this point The Wizard headed down to Pooley Bridge and back along the northern bank of the lake to complete his circumnavigation before driving on to Kirkby Stephen. Navigation at this point is a bit sketchy despite the odd sign post. Basically head toward the top of Askham Fell then turn right toward the Cop Stone. This area has shake holes as well as being jam packed with interesting historical artifacts. There are the Bronze Age stone circles for starters, the biggest being the Cock Pit and also the Cop Stone which stands out like a sore thumb. It was distinctive enough to immediately draw us off our bikes and infront of the camera. It must've seemed quite out of place even to non-geologists like ourselves. As it turns out the rock is known as a 'glacial erratic', meaning it was dumped there during an ice age.


One more (excuse the pun) thing I'd like to say about Moor Divock is the way the terrain changes so quickly. Within a couple of kilometers the ground beneath our wheels had imperceptibly changed from being hard, grey granite into soft, spongy, grass covered limestone reminiscent of Pennine moorland. The transition was both smooth and abrupt. At our rear are mountains made of granite that climb pointedly into the sky and plunge relentlessly into the earth, ahead of us are rolling velvutinous hills. It is a lovely place to visit and with close links to the M6 an ideal back-door into the Lakes I reckon.

Water Works

After decending from Moor Divock we picked up the road that passes throught the three B's: Butterwick, Bampton and Burn Banks. Just after crossing Haweswater Beck turn left up the Water Works service road. This is a single-file (for cars) concreted road that runs pretty much all the way to the A6. We made good time on this section and the weather was set fair as we cruised across the head of Swindale and across a three of bridges over becks and gills. Finally we passed Kemp Howe on the left and climbed up to the A6, heading straight across it onto the B6261, taking the right hand fork and bobbing under the M6 where the carriage ways split in two. It's a rather surreal feeling cycling in the middle of the M6 motorway!

Orton

We followed the B6261 which Wiggo observed is a rather hefty road considering it only services tiny villages. It passes under Crosby Ravensworth Fell and drops down into the sleepy village of Orton. KT had run out of water several miles back so we decided to grab a couple of pints of water at The George pub. We had made good time on the tarmac and as luck would have it they had Sky Sports on telly so we were able to ease into a quick pint of ale and watch a bit of Ashes cricket - perfect! We couldn't stop long however and so hopped back our steeds and passed through Kelleth and turned left at New-Biggin-On-Lune, taking in views of The Howgill Fells on our right.

Smardale Fell

We picked up a bridleway that took us to the now derelict and slightly sorry looking Friars Bottom Farm. Great name though. The countryside around here was picturesque pennine farmland. The track took us down to Scandal Beck which we crossed then up Smardale Fell - a cheeky final climb. From here we could see Scandal Viaduct (I think), and once over the brow of the fell we could just about see Kirkby Stephen. We rode down the fast grassy eastern side of Smardale Fell avoiding the grazing cattle but not necessarily their number twos! We then picked up a country lane that took us over a railway and through Waitby. We entered Kirkby Stephen at dusk, tired and hungry but happy to have made it before dark.

Kirkby Stephen YHA
It was like the Mary Celeste when we arrived at the hostel. A note had been left on the door but we pretty much had to scurry around in the dark to park our bikes up, find our rooms and get showered. Kieran, Wiggo and I had a quick eat-in Chinese at the very accomodating Chinese restaurant on the high street before joining The Wizard, Cleggy and The Rear at The Black Bull Hotel where we were treated to a pint and lots of attention from the owners chocolate coloured dog. We were at various states of alertness between us but it's fair to say KT was certainly feeling the miles by the end of day 3. But the thing is we're more than half way there now, it would be madness to stop now.

Coast To Coast Day 2

Summary

Eskdale YHA to Ambleside YHA

Route Distance: 34.4 km Estimated Time: 8:36

Total Ascent: 1342m Total Descent: 1395 m

Elevation Profile


From misc


Route Map

From misc


YouTube
Here's a video montage of Day2. Best viewed in HD mode and on a large screen. None of the photo's have been doctored in any way what-so-ever.



Route Description
Niagra
We awoke to the sounds of absolutely torrential rain on Saturday morning. It had been belting it down all night and by the sounds of it there was no signs of the weather abating. As the curtains were pulled back the rain seemed to stop instantly but the noise continued. As it turns out we'd been sleeping with our window open and the monsoon rains sound effects were actually caused by a beck rushing down from the fell behind the hostel. Still, it had put a lot of rain down in the last 18 hours or so and the clouds were still on the floor, we couldn't even see Harter Fell (our next intended conquest) from the dining room and it's only about a kilometer away. We breakfasted and planned the days logistics.

Logistics
Each day we have to get the van over to the next accommodation stop. Jon, Cleggy and myself have completed the ride previously but Kieran and Lee haven't. Chris had to get back to work on Monday so he wouldn't be able to complete the entire ride, so it was decided that everyone could drive a bit except KT and Wiggo who stood a chance of completing the whole shebang. My fear before the trip was that I'd have to drive the van quite a bit, but after yesterdays washout there was no shortage of volunteers to 'take one for the team' and drive the van. Cleggy and Chris decided it wasn't safe to make the journey over Hardknott Pass alone so they both jumped in the Mystery Machine and sped off into the sunset!

Bike Fixing
Lee had damaged his rear gear shifter on yesterdays descent of Black Sail Pass. Kieran had bent a rear disc rotor too, so we patched up the bikes on the front lawn of the superbly-situated Eskdale YHA. To our delight the clouds began to lift off the surrounding fells and before long there were glimpses of blue sky appearing as a fresh weather front brought in better tidings from the south west.

Eskdale YHA
A quick note on Eskdale YHA, the service has improved considerably since we were there last, it was great to see that it is no longer run by members of the Hitler Youth. In fact our hosts were pleasant, friendly and helpful. Unfortunately the drying room didn't quite dry our sodden clothes fully and so this morning we had to wear our damp biking gear and slip into soggy boots. This YHA now has an electronic key-code door lock which greatly facilitates late nights at the local pubs, superb idea. The hostel also had a bar area - a new innovation, but the prices were not much cheaper than at the pub. Overall though Eskdale YHA gets a thumbs up.

Harter Fell, Dunnerdale Forest, Fickle Crag
Upon leaving the hostel we headed towards Hardknott Pass on the road for 2km. We took a bridleway on the right at a cattle grid, just before the road starts to get steep. Things didn't look good at this point as it appeared that our route was now a full on river. We crossed the river and were relieved to find a proper bridleway. After passing through a couple of gates the single track became very steep and began to resemble a log-flume rather than a bicycle track. Clearly the rain that had fallen in the night was making it's way off the mountains via any route it could. We had to carry our bikes a fair bit, party because of the gradient and partly because of the foot-or-so of water that was meandering down the hill in the opposite direction.

It didn't get any better on the top either. Ulpha fell was awash, our track was riddled with bogs caused by streams crossing it at regular intervals. Next it was a trudge through the outskirts of Dunnerdale Forest. After taking a right turn under Kepple Crag we were soon back on the bikes and taking on some challenging single track aided by a gentle downward gradient. We crossed Grassguards Gill a couple of times, it was in flood evidenced by the waters flowing over rather than under wooden crossing points. We came to a farm and crossed Grassguards again at the ford. The current was very strong at the ford. We were undecided whether or not it was ridable or whether the current would flush out to sea. We walked the crossing a few times to test it, (it was only a couple of feet high), each time we did so we could feel the water trying to knock us off our feet. It might be quite tricky on a bike, if it washed a wheel away you would definitely end up swimming after your bike down the white water. Wiggo and I were too committed so we lined up and went for it whilst KT took some action shots. As it turns out it was fine, but there was potential for a slip up. Immediately after the ford we took a narrow bridleway into the trees to the left of Grassguards Gill as you head downwards. It's easy to miss. The single track along here was great if you're technically up to it. It's tight and slow with some big rock drops and rooty sections. Neither Lee or I cleaned it, we weren't far off though. KT found it a bit hard work on the hard tail. By this stage I was hoping that Kieran's sense of humour wouldn't desert him, it's bad enough having to walk up a hill never mind walk along the top then down the other side! The three of us then bombed down Fickle Crag which again has a couple of excellent technical challenges in the dry. In the wet they are all but lethal, the sort where you just point the bike down the hill and it's in the lap of the gods whether or not you lose a wheel on the slippy, slimy surface. It was like riding on ice on some parts. Still, it was better than walking!


The descent terminated at the Duddon River. Just as we arrived at the crossing there was a chap crossing the river via the submerged stepping stones, holding onto a cable. His three companions, another bloke and two ladies were encouraging our middle-aged Scandinavian(?) friend across. He looked fairly wobbly and sure enough took a full dive into the swim before flailing around a bit and holding on to the cable for dear life. I thought we were going to have to go in and save him but he managed to hold on and haul himself to safety on our side of the river. We crossed the river with the bikes without much problem. KT just waded through, Wiggo and I opted for the stepping stone route. It was like taking part in one of those Japanese game shows. After the river crossing you then have another short push up High Tongue for about 200 meters before turning right onto a road (which we were quite glad to see), then take your first road on the left to Long House.

Walna Scar
There's no two ways about it, the climb up Walna Scar isn't much fun. Last night I described it to an inqusitive lady (who was cradling a baby at the time) as "a bit of a grunt". The Wizard had rather amusingly misheard my turn of phrase and thought I'd just introduced the infant to it's first four letter c-word. The route up is signposted as Walna Scar Road and takes you up to Brown Crag, a short distance to the summit of Coniston Old Man. The first half of the climb is pretty much unridable unfortunately as some bright spark has been making 'surface improvements'. Sadly we'd left our Sherman tanks at home and so riding up a steep hill full of gravel was a bit hard. After the second gate the track is of a much better grade and is all ridable. We finally attained the summit and were blessed with stunning views westward out to the coast over Black Combe and then inland over Coniston and into central lakeland. The sunlight danced in and out of the clouds illuminating patches of the two valleys below. We savoured the moment before dropping our seats down and taking on the descent into Consiton town.

The top of the descent is a rocky affair, you have to pick your lines reasonably carefully or risk going over the bars as big drops present themselves without much warning, especially on a couple of tight bends. Walkers usually watch agog at this point, but they are generally courteous and make way for you, especially if you're dialled in. The hard part is trying to acknowledge their courteousness whilst concentrating on the next set of obstacles. You can't take your eyes off the track for a split second really. The rocky top section gives way to a fast flowing grassy mid-section which has a few little jumps you can hop over. The gradient reduces somewhat as you take a left fork and end up on a well-graded fire road that itself subsides into a small but very steep country lane which spits you out at The Sun in Conisiton where we engaged in a much deserved pint.

Slow Progress
We were supposed to be meeting Chris and Cleggy at Yewdale Tea Rooms just north of Coniston in the mid-afternoon, however my estimate of how quickly we'd traverse Harter Fell and Walna Scar were wildly optimistic thanks to the weather and, erm, my wild optimism. Van driver Clegg and Co-pilot Chris had ridden over from Ambleside and over Iron Keld (a nice bridleway) and after imbibing 27 cups of tea each had decided to cycle back to Ambleside YHA. At this point we had the option to crack on straight back to the hostel but it was turning out to be a lovely evening so we dismissed any thoughts of cheating and committed to going the long way around. We're glad we did as it produced some of the best views and most enjoyable riding on the route.

High Tilberthwaite, Little Langdale, Elterwater, Loughrigg Terrace
After resisting the urge for a second pint we headed north out of Coniston and after 2km on a bridleway just to the left of the road took the first lane on the left. It climbs upwards and past some old mine workings. The road peters out at a farm, we took the right hand fork and whizzed down the well graded track underneath the Tilberthwaite Fells, through Moss Rigg Wood and into Little Langdale. This is a good little bridleway and a great cut-through away from the madding crowds. From here we headed to Elterwater up a dead-end lane that again turned into a well graded track. We stopped for photos and to watch the cows grazing in the evening sunlight before heading through a working quarry which had three massive yellow trucks for carting the granite around. We dropped down to the B5343 and took on began the final climb of the day up up the side of Loughrigg Fell. Turn right onto a bridleway just after the road summit and enjoy the views across Grasmere and Rydal Water which nestle below Grassmere Common on to the north west and the imposing Helvellyn to the north east. This track is often cluttered up with day trippers from Ambleside as the walk around Loughrigg Terrace and over Loughrigg Fell is within spitting distance of the town. It was almost 9pm by the time we reached the terrace.

Ambleside
The once sleepy village of Ambleside is now a fully fledged honey trap. It's at its least attractive in the summer on a weekend when every man and his dog show up. After some check-in faffage at the hostel we dumped our bikes in the van and grabbed a quick shower. KT, Wiggo and myself jogged into the centre of Ambleside (half a mile from the YHA) where Cleggy and Chris had kept the kitchens of The Queens Hotel open for us. We phoned our order through - two lamb Henry's and a steak and ale pie. Glorious. We were famished and wolfed down the meal. Bizarely the Queens Hotel insists on paying for meals and beers upfront, the rules were strictly enforced, it seemed a little out of keeping with the grandeur of the building and location, all a bit Wetherspoons really. New fact of the day: The Queens Hotel used to be a youth hostel.

With renewed energy we skipped off to The Unicorn, a decent place with two real ales on and Mick Mead & guest playing a few folk numbers to the packed audience. We walked over the threshold and squeezed our way to the bar. It was absolutely roasting inside and raining outside. There was a bit of a commotion and the next thing we knew Toddy was being bear hugged by some of his mates from back home who had been training for a trip to Everest. Quite a coincidence. I was pleased the day had ended on a high for Toddy as the first half of the ride was quite a test of patience, we walked a lot more than we rode which is very frustrating. In hindsight I would have skipped Harter Fell/Dunnerdale in such wet conditions.

Is it a pub? Is it a club? No it's a Youth Hostel
We walked home in the rain, we were happy as we'd been well fed and equally well watered. We popped into a 'trendy wine bar' on the way home. This is the first venue of it's kind that I can recall in Ambleside and another sign that modern life is sadly catching up with the town, eating away at it's soul, but we weren't exactly complaining so maybe I'm being hypocritical! Upon our return to the hostel Lee and I settled down with a solitary bottle of Spitfire each and were recounting the events of the day when we were politely informed that we were not allowed to consume our own beer in the hostel. The night porter illustrated his point by asking us if we'd take our own beer into a pub. Wiggo gently pointed out that we were in a youth hostel as opposed to a nightclub. Hmm, things really are changing for the worse. The night porter's manner wasn't the most concilliatory so we failed to comply with his request. Ten minutes later he popped back and made his point again, informing us that he may have to call his supervisor and asking what I thought about that. I suggested that his manager might not appreciate a phone call this late at night. That seemed to do the trick.

Losing the Plot
Now then, I appreciate this chap had to do his job and that England is the worst country in the world for inventing arbitrary rules and regulations that do not make sense but not being able to have your own quiet pint in a youth hostel is just plain wrong. Ambleside YHA has only had a bar installed in recent years, the night porter was blissfully unaware that we've been staying in that hostel for many years, in fact I've still got keys for half the rooms! The youth hostel movement seems to be in a modernisation phase but in certain areas, this being one of them, looks to be falling between two stools. It's busy commercialising it's hostels; offering a greater range of facilities and services and so on but at the same time is in danger of become just another cheap hotel chain. Let me explain: the prices are not much cheaper than B&Bs by the time you've bought a breakfast, yet you still have to make your own beds up, sleep with randoms and so on. The YHA as an organisation has undergone significant change over the past decade, not least announcing the closure of many sites in order to reduce its debt burden, so there is economic pressure to squeeze the sponge a bit harder, but if you squeeze it too hard eventually no more water will come out. Having a beer after a long days ride should not be a crime.



Slideshow
Here's a slideshow, clicking on it will link you through to the web album which contains lots of pictures from Day 2. Grand.